DISCOVER THE ALGARVE
A Winter Trip to Portugal
Why the Algarve in February?
Sunshine, Sunshine & More Sunshine
The Algarve is an exceptional holiday destination that surpassed all our expectations. From the warmth and friendliness of its people to the perfect weather, delectable cuisine, immaculate beaches, and stunning ocean views, every aspect was outstanding. Join me as I share our journey, and perhaps you’ll be inspired to explore this incredible part of the world yourself someday.
When we decided to take a vacation, my Google search started with "What's the warmest place in Europe in February?" We were looking for a destination where we could relax, stroll on the beach, and immerse ourselves in local culture through day trips. I discovered that the Algarve boasts over 300 days of sunshine annually and minimal rainfall. With 150 kilometers of coastline, it features some of the world's most beautiful beaches and over 25 diverse resort towns, ranging from tranquil, picturesque hideaways to bustling cities with vibrant nightlife, each with its unique character. After some research, we chose Lagos as our home base. This historic city in the Western Algarve, brimming with character, is ideally situated for day trips. Lagos offers a variety of accommodations, from campgrounds to luxury hotels. We found an Airbnb apartment with a large terrace overlooking Dona Ana Beach, one of the Algarve's most stunning beaches.
Winters in the Algarve are known for their mildness, with average temperatures ranging between 16 and 18 degrees Celsius. We were fortunate, as most days ranged from 18 to 22 degrees, requiring a hat and sunscreen for me. From the terrace, we listened to the ocean, watched stunning sunrises, and enjoyed homemade breakfasts. One morning, we were delighted to see a pod of dolphins just beyond the beach. Most days, we hiked or relaxed on the beach, quickly forgetting about the snow back home. The temperature dipped in the afternoon and became quite chilly in the evening, so we always had pants and jackets ready in the car. It was also the perfect time of year, with many flowers already in bloom and the orange and lemon trees ready for harvest.
Praia Dona Ana
Lagos
Lagos is a city that boasts a rich seafaring heritage and a coastline of dramatic cliffs and natural beauty. Today, it stands as one of the Algarve’s finest holiday destinations, offering picturesque beaches, vibrant nightlife, and a variety of tourist activities. Thankfully, it hasn’t succumbed to mass tourism, so it retains its distinctive character and charm, with cobbled streets, authentic restaurants, and a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere. Its extensive history is reflected throughout the city, encircled by ancient Moorish walls dating back to the 16th century, and featuring a 17th-century fort and extravagant Baroque churches. The focal point of Lagos is the pretty harbor estuary that leads past the small fishing harbor to a modern marina, along which you can stroll along the scenic promenade.
To the south of Lagos lies the Ponta da Piedade headland, where weathered cliffs are lined with spectacular grottos, arches, sea caves, and picturesque cove beaches. To the east is the 4 km long Meia Praia, the largest sandy beach in the Western Algarve. We stopped for lunch at a casual little restaurant nestled in the dunes of Meia Praia. Their specialty, prawns in sizzling hot garlic butter, was absolutely mouth-watering.
Lagos is an excellent destination for all types of travelers. Despite its vibrant nightlife, it feels less suited for groups wanting to party excessively. For that, Albufeira’s strip is more appropriate. Lagos is known for being more relaxed and safer than some other resort towns, with a less hectic atmosphere in the evening.
One aspect of Lagos that I found quite interesting is its architecture, particularly the varied state of buildings in the historic center. Beautifully restored buildings covered in fantastic, traditional tiles stand next to structures in complete disrepair. This juxtaposition, combined with random street art and large-scale murals, made our walks through the narrow, cobbled streets especially fascinating.
February is the low season in the Algarve, so certain businesses close for the winter and tourist services are reduced. However, Lagos has a large permanent population, so most restaurants and bars remain open year-round. It was interesting to see the town gradually come to life as the days passed. The weather grew warmer and the days longer, with an increasing number of tourists, tour boat operators, and street vendors appearing. On the walking trails and beaches, it remained peaceful and undisturbed. We took full advantage of the sunshine, enjoying cappuccinos and lunches on restaurant patios, and savoring picnic lunches on some of the best beaches in the world.
Driving in the Algarve
Driving in the Algarve was remarkably easy - at least it was in February during the low season. Traffic can be quite heavy during the peak holiday months. On day trips, we usually used the A22, a toll highway, which often felt like we had the road to ourselves due to the minimal traffic. Our “speedy” rental car, a 1.2-liter Fiat Punto, had a built-in alarm system that sounded whenever our speed exceeded 130 km/h. Douglas didn’t appreciate the alarm as much as I did. Over the course of the month, we drove just over 3,000 kilometers, including the trip from Lisbon and back, and the toll bill was about €100.00. Our rental car was equipped with a toll transponder, and the fee was automatically charged to our credit card by the rental company.
We found street signage in the Algarve to be easy to follow, and most roads were in excellent condition. We were able to navigate easily without using GPS. However, driving into the old town areas could be challenging if you're not accustomed to narrow cobblestone streets. While there is an extensive bus system in Lagos and other towns, having a car allowed us to explore the entire region and discover some hidden gems.
If you decide to rent a car in Portugal, click here for things you should know before you arrive.
Praia do Camilo
HIKING IN THE ALGARVE
The Algarve is a treasure trove of natural beauty and adventure, featuring excellent hiking trails. We explored several trails along the coast and were rewarded with stunning views at every turn. Here are some of the trails we walked:
Ponta da Piedade
Some of the Algarve’s finest natural beauty can be found at Ponta da Piedade, located just south of Lagos. This dramatic headland features spectacular views of caves, grottoes, and sea arches sculpted from sandstone cliffs. From Lagos, a 6-km round-trip coastal trail meanders past picturesque beaches, including Praia dos Estudantes, Praia do Pinhão, Praia Dona Ana, and Praia do Camilo, leading to a lighthouse dating back to 1913. Near the lighthouse, a set of stairs descends to a beautiful cove, and the view at the bottom makes the climb back to the top worthwhile.
Just beyond the lighthouse, a boardwalk follows the western side of the coastline along the cliffs, offering breathtaking views of the beaches below. The boardwalk is suitable for people with limited mobility, as there are no steps, and it provides a safe distance from the edge of the cliffs, making it ideal for children. A footpath continues to the expansive Praia de Porto do Mós, but it veers inland through the residential district of Porto do Mós rather than following the coastline.
We did this walk a couple of times. The first time, we ventured off the boardwalk to access Praia Canavial, an isolated and peaceful beach. The path to the beach runs along the cliff top, where overgrown vegetation is reclaiming what used to be fig orchards. This winding, narrow path descends to the beach via steps carved into the cliff face.
Another way to enjoy this spectacular coastline is by boat. I recommend a tour company that uses smaller fishing boats. Our skilled captain, "Jack Sparrow," navigated us into the smallest of caves and shared the nicknames of the rock formations based on their appearances, such as Michael Jackson, King Kong, Baby Elephant, and Mama Elephant.
Pontal da Carrapateira Trail
The Pontal da Carrapateira Trail, also known as the Trail of Tides, is a 10.3 km loop that doubles as an ethnographic journey. To the north, it is bordered by Praia da Bordeira, a vast beach with pristine dunes, and to the south by the striking Praia do Amado, one of the best surfing beaches in Portugal. On a clear day, you can see up the coast to Arrifana and down to Cabo de São Vicente. The trail features a series of boardwalks leading to viewpoints, where you can take in the magnificent views from 25-meter-high cliffs. The route culminates in an unforgettable panoramic view of the cliffs, the ocean, and the ruins of a 12th-century Arab fishing village.
We discovered this area by accident while driving along the coast in search of new beaches when we noticed a narrow road. We followed it, and I asked Douglas to park the car so we could walk beyond the parking lot. Actually, I believe I yelled some obscenities and pleaded with him not to drive beyond the parking lot because it looked like the road dropped off the edge of the earth! Of course, it didn’t. It led to the Pontal da Carrapateira peninsula and some of the most awe-inspiring scenery I’ve ever seen. We didn’t finish the trail that day since it was getting late, so we sat at one of the viewpoints high above the massive waves and had a picnic while watching a magnificent sunset. It was one of my favorite days in the Algarve.
We decided to revisit the Pontal da Carrapateira trail the following day with our neighbors from Lagos. The winds were stronger, and the waves and spray of the sea were higher and even more spectacular. We witnessed the sheer force of the ocean that day.
Learn more about the Pontal da Carrapateira.
Seven Hanging Valleys Trail
The Seven Hanging Valleys Trail is one of the most scenic routes along the Algarve coast. It follows the stunning coastline between Vale de Centeanes (Carvoeiro) to the west and Praia da Marinha to the east, stretching along the top of the rugged cliffs that tower over the Atlantic Ocean. This fairly easy hike offers spectacular views of majestic sea arches, exposed sinkholes, breathtaking beaches, and the famous Benagil Cave. The entire trail is about 11.4 km round trip and takes approximately five hours to complete.
The trail is easy to follow, clearly marked on rocks and posts in both directions. Starting from Vale de Centeanes, it follows the cliffs toward Alfanzina Lighthouse, which is the halfway point. Continuing on, you come to Benagil beach, and at the end, you arrive at Praia da Marinha, one of Europe’s most beautiful beaches. This is a perfect spot to stop for a picnic if you’re completing the entire journey. During the summer months, there are places to buy ice cream and drinks before you descend the stairs to the beach, and there’s a restaurant at the bottom. If you’re hiking the trail during the warmer months, you might also want to stop for a swim.
Even during the winter months, it’s usually sunny and warm, so be prepared for sun exposure with a hat, sunscreen, and a reusable water bottle. I highly recommend good walking shoes and comfortable clothing. While it’s not a challenging trek, some parts of the trail are trickier than others, so you’ll want to pay attention to every step and stop walking before taking photos. Always make sure to stay on the path, keep a safe distance from the edge of the cliffs, and stay behind the fencing around the sinkholes. Many of the cliffs are sheer with precarious overhangs that are not always apparent from the top. Despite the perilous heights, you’ll often see local fishermen perched on the edge of cliffs along this trail and other parts of the Algarve. If you look closely at our photos, you’ll spot fishermen with their lines in the water many meters below.
We completed the Seven Hanging Valleys Trail in sections over three days:
Day 1: We parked at Praia da Marinha and walked from there to Praia Benagil and back along the trail. After spending some relaxing time at Praia da Marinha, we drove to Carvoeiro, where we had dinner on a restaurant patio and then enjoyed the end of a beautiful sunset from a seating area on the hillside overlooking the town.
Day 2: We parked at Vale de Centeanes and walked to Praia Benagil. This section took us past Alfanzina Lighthouse and Praia Carvalho. We found this part of the trail to be the most challenging due to the rocky areas and steep climbs. We stopped in Benagil and had lunch at a wonderful restaurant called Pescador. We then took a taxi back to Vale de Centeanes, where we watched the sunset from the beach.
Day 3: Although this section isn’t officially part of the Seven Hanging Valleys Trail, I highly recommend it. We parked near the Carvoeiro Boardwalk, an oceanfront walkway along the rocky coastline. Along the boardwalk, there’s an area where you can explore the cliffs by walking down steps carved into the rock. We found this area fascinating and enjoyed climbing around the rocks and caves—it felt like walking on the surface of Mars!
We continued to Algar Seco, another area with fascinating cliff formations carved out of the limestone bedrock. This is where we found the cave called “A Boneca” (the doll), the most famous viewpoint in Carvoeiro. A short passage leads to a small chamber with two eroded arches offering views of the ocean. The name comes from the seaside exterior, which resembles a doll, with the cave openings forming the eyes.
By then, we were ready for a cappuccino and pastel da nata, so we stopped at the nearby Algar Seco Resort, where we found both! We continued our journey along the cliffs, which took us past the back of the Tivoli Hotel to Vale de Centeanes Beach, where we rested and dipped our feet in the frigid water. We walked back to Carvoeiro on the main road, which is faster than the trail.
It was Valentine’s Day, so we bought a bottle of Prosecco and some treats and enjoyed a picnic dinner on the boardwalk while watching the sun go down. It was an absolutely perfect day!
We visited this area several times because there was so much to explore. Vale de Centeanes Beach became one of our favorite spots at dusk. We would grab a beer from the beach bar, wrap ourselves in a blanket, and watch the spectacular sunsets. Another favorite point along the trail is Praia do Carvalho, a secluded beach surrounded by ocher cliffs, accessible only through a man-made tunnel with steep steps. The town of Carvoeiro is also quite charming, and the Carvoeiro Boardwalk is a fantastic place to watch the sunset. Additionally, the Tivoli Hotel has an inviting terrace overlooking the pool and the ocean. We revisited Benagil for another delicious lunch at Pescador and took a boat tour along the coast, exploring Benagil Cave and several other sea caves and sinkholes. Our skilled captain navigated the boat into the smallest caves, timing the waves perfectly to leave only a few inches between our boat and the cave entrance. It was definitely a memorable experience.
Pastéis de Nata
Cappuccinos and More
This creamy, flaky custard tart is one of Portugal’s great culinary gifts to the world, and it quickly became a daily habit for us to have one (or two…) with a cappuccino.
Pastel da nata (plural: pastéis de nata) is a Portuguese egg tart dusted with cinnamon and served warm. These delectable pastries were created by Catholic monks in Lisbon before the 18th century. These monks and nuns are responsible for creating many of the Portuguese pastries known today.
Following the extinction of the religious orders and the impending closure of many convents and monasteries after the Liberal Revolution of 1820, the monks started selling pastéis de nata at a nearby sugar refinery to generate revenue. In 1834, the monastery closed, and the recipe was sold to the refinery. In 1837, the owners opened the Fábrica de Pastéis de Belém. To this day, their descendants still own the business. We visited this historic bakery while in Lisbon, where you can watch the bakers at work through a window. The secret recipe has been guarded since 1837. Once you try one of these tarts, you’ll understand why more than 10,000 are baked there every day.
Another Portuguese dessert worth mentioning is “Três Delícias do Algarve.” This three-layer cake features carob, almonds, and figs, all grown in the Algarve region due to its perfect weather conditions. It might sound like an unusual combination, but it’s absolutely delicious! We found it only once, at a restaurant in Sagres called Chiringuito Praia da Mareta, which also has great food and an amazing view. We were sitting on the patio when storm clouds rolled in with much-needed rain, so we lingered, ordering another Três Delícias and enjoying the cozy atmosphere.
Day Trips From Lagos
There are countless noteworthy towns and over 130 beaches in the Algarve, making it impossible to explore them all in one visit. With the weather being so beautiful, we spent most of our time on the coast. It was warm enough to relax on the beach, even though the water was too cold for swimming.
Seville
Located in the southern part of Spain, Seville is the capital city of Andalusia. Known for its rich cultural and artistic heritage, it's worth visiting just to see the stunning cathedral and the city's beautiful landmarks.
The drive from Lagos to Seville was an easy two and a half hours, and with the one-hour time difference, the trip home felt an hour shorter—at least, it was a good excuse to stop at the Outlet Mall. Once we arrived in Seville, we parked the car for the weekend and explored the city on foot. Our Airbnb apartment was near Alameda de Hércules, a large square in La Alameda neighborhood. This trendy area, often referred to as the Soho of Seville, is full of bars and restaurants and buzzes with young people all night long. It was a pleasant 15-minute walk to Santa Cruz, the main tourist neighborhood of Seville.
After settling into the apartment, we set out to explore the city. We strolled through the Parque de María Luisa and the Plaza de España, walked along the river, visited the Seville Cathedral, and enjoyed delicious tapas on a terrace.
In the evening, we visited Las Setas, Seville’s large, modern monument project sprawling across Plaza de la Encarnación. We learned that the project was controversial among locals due to its €10 million price tag. Love it or hate it, it provides enchanting views of the city at night.
The following day, we embarked on a five-hour guided bike tour that started in Triana and took us around the entire city. Seville is very bicycle-friendly, with a network of over 170 km of cycle paths. Our guide, Estesto, was quite knowledgeable about Seville’s history. He led us through different neighborhoods, familiar landmarks, and some off-the-beaten-path places. We biked through the narrow passageways of the Santa Cruz neighborhood and stopped at Convento de San Leandro, a 13th-century convent where cloistered nuns sell sweets, especially known for their iconic yemas. You never see the nuns or the cookies; there’s a price list on the wall and a window with a lazy Susan-style turnstile. You place your money on the tray, rotate it, and a few moments later, the tray turns back with your cookies. The bike tour was a fun, visceral experience and a great way to explore the city.
Any visit to Seville should include the Real Alcázar, the oldest royal palace still in use in Europe. With over 1,000 years of history, it consists of several buildings from different eras. We walked through its magnificent salons adorned with geometric tiled walls and intricate plasterwork and spent most of our time in the incredible gardens. The garden is a mosaic of perfectly aligned courtyards and pools connected by passageways, following a symmetrical motif. Parts of these salons and gardens were used as filming locations for Game of Thrones when they became the Water Gardens of Dorne.
Seville teems with trendy tapas restaurants and bars, and we tried as many as we could during our short visit. The siesta tradition is still alive in Seville, meaning many businesses close from around 2 to 5 p.m., allowing employees to go home for a rest and a leisurely lunch with their family before returning in the afternoon. Likewise, many Sevillanos have dinner around 9 or 10 p.m. It’s best to adapt to the local eating schedule since restaurants that open early tend to be more touristy, although not all of them.
There’s so much about Seville that makes me want to return someday. Mostly, it’s the maze of intimate narrow streets that suddenly lead you to beautiful open squares filled with markets, cafes, bars, and the vibrant street life that is the beating heart of Seville.
Lisbon
We spent the final three nights of our trip in Lisbon, Portugal’s hilly capital city on the River Tagus. Despite our initial plan to relax after many miles walked in the Algarve, the allure of Lisbon’s rich history and vibrant atmosphere quickly had us exploring once more. The city, from which courageous navigators set sail in the 15th and 16th centuries to chart new lands, evoked a sense of nostalgia for me being across the ocean from St. John’s, where I was born. St. John’s is actually 1500 km closer to Lisbon than it is to Vancouver. Portuguese vessels fished the Grand Banks off Newfoundland for centuries, a tradition echoed in generations of Newfoundlanders. By the late 1960s, over 35 Portuguese vessels sailed annually to the Grand Banks for the cod fishery, often spending months away from home, a perilous lifestyle immortalized in Portugal’s melancholic Fado songs.
We opted to return our rental car at the airport and take a short taxi ride to our hotel, a decision that proved wise. Our accommodation, Solar do Castelo, nestled within São Jorge Castle at the top of Alfama—the historic heart of Lisbon—proved to be a romantic hideaway unlike any other. Set in an 18th-century building that once housed the Royal Palace kitchens, its courtyard opens onto the castle grounds, frequented by the castle’s graceful peacocks. From the moment we arrived, we felt at home, greeted warmly by the staff who treated us like family. Each day, a decanter of port wine awaited us in our room, replenished without fail. On our second day, we were surprised with a bottle of chilled champagne, a delightful touch.
After navigating Lisbon’s undulating streets, we opted for a driver to tour the city in a vintage Piaggio Ape (Tuk Tuk). While most tour companies now use electric Tuk Tuks, the Piaggio felt more stylish and zippier—a perfect match for Lisbon’s seven hills. Our tour whisked us past Terreiro do Paco, stopping at legendary churches, the 16th-century Jerónimos Monastery, the Torre de Belém, and the Monument to the Discoveries. We even visited the factory of Pastéis de Belém, indulging in cappuccinos and their famed custard tarts. We must have lingered, as our driver eventually came looking for us. Stocking up on extra treats, we returned to our hotel to enjoy them with the ever-replenished port wine.
The following morning, we explored São Jorge Castle next door. Early and rainy, we savored Lisbon’s popular attractions in near solitude. The castle, perched on one of Lisbon’s highest hills with origins dating back to the 2nd century B.C., offered a captivating blend of archaeological wonders, lush gardens, and panoramic city views. Climbing its walls and towers, we admired vistas spanning nearly every part of Lisbon, while the onsite museum provided deeper insights into its storied past.
Lisbon boasts a myriad of distinct neighborhoods to discover. We wandered through Chiado’s trendy shops, explored Bairro Alto’s bohemian vibe and its lively nightclubs, and marveled at Baixa’s elegant Pombaline architecture. We strolled down Rua Augusta, passing through its iconic 19th-century arch into Terreiro do Paco, one of Europe’s largest squares, before tracing the riverbank promenade. Near the castle, we delved into Alfama’s labyrinthine streets and alleys, steeped in history and charm.
Just when Douglas thought we might finally rest, I persuaded him to hop aboard the classic, bustling Tram 28. This charming yellow tram rattles through Lisbon’s narrow streets, an integral part of the city’s public transport network. Passing through historic districts like Graça, Alfama, Baixa, Chiado, and Sao Bento, it offers a budget-friendly way to tour Lisbon’s highlights.
For our last evening in Lisbon, we dined at Claras em Castelo, a quaint restaurant near the castle with only a handful of tables. The chef prepared dishes based on what was available, resulting in one of our most memorable meals of the trip. I savored a delightful bacalhau dish, reminiscent of traditional Newfoundland cuisine—a fitting conclusion to our Portuguese adventure.